Edge Experts

Question via Ask the Expert:

I was looking at your Pro Hand Sharpening system and was wondering if you know whether or not it would work well with garden pruning shears? I think the angle on the cutting blade of most shears is about 15 degrees.

Thanks, Wes

Edge Expert Response:

Wes,

Thanks for your inquiry regarding our products.  Based on the product name you supplied, “Pro Hand Sharpening System,” I am not able to specifically answer your question because I am not exactly sure which product you are referring to.  If you could possibly provide the Item number or UPC code from the back of the packaging or the exact name of the product on the front of the packaging, then I could more accurately answer your question.  I can, however, give you some general comments regarding our Edgesport product line that may answer your question.

Our Edgesport sharpeners are specifically designed for sharpening most knives and tools in the Sporting Goods and Hardware markets.  Most of the knives and tools in these markets use a wider cutting edge because it gives the user better edge retention.  A wider edge may not be as sharp initially as a thinner edge, but it is more durable and therefore last longer.  It is a trade off based on what you are using the knife or tool for.

Because the Sporting Goods and Hardware markets are using harder Steels in the blades and wider cutting edges, we picked a general purpose sharpening angle to use on all of our Fixed Angle Edgesport sharpening products that would cover most all knives and tools offered in this market, while providing the consumer with a cutting edge that is sharp and durable.  We chose a 23 degree sharpening angle per side (46 degree combined) to use on our sharpeners sold in the Sporting Goods and Hardware markets.  We understand this fixed sharpening angle might not meet the needs of every tool out there, but it covers the broadest range possible.  All other items needing sharpened at much more extreme angles are covered by using one of our many sharpening products which allow the user to determine the sharpening angle or allow for multiple sharpening angles.  Some examples of these type sharpeners are bench stone sharpeners, Precision Sharpening Systems, or Sharpening Rods.

As you can see from the information provided, whether the “Pro Hand Sharpening System” will work on garden pruning shears is questionable depending on if this particular sharpener is a Fixed Angle sharpener, a Free Hand Sharpener (i.e. Bench stone or Sharpening Rod), or a Precision Sharpening System.  If it is a Fixed Angle sharpener, I would not recommend using it for your garden pruning shears unless you are willing to accept the change in the cutting edge.  If it one of the other type of sharpeners that allow you to control the sharpening angle or choose from various degrees of angle, I would recommend using it to sharpen the garden shears and make sure you try to get as close to the original angle of the cutting edge as possible so you don’t have to remove an excessive amount of metal to get the edge sharp.  One way to test your sharpening angle is to coat the cutting edges with a black magic marker.  As you sharpen, you will see the marker disappear if you are keeping the right angle to the sharpener.  Once you have coated both edges with marker, take a swipe or two down your stone or a couple pulls through the sharpener if using a fixed angle sharpener.  If the marker is wiped off over the width of the bevel you have matched the angle properly.  If your angle is too high, only the marker near the very edge will be removed.  If your angle is too low only the marker above the edge will be removed.  Re-coating the edge as you sharpen is a good way to ensure that you’re holding the correct angle throughout the sharpening process.  No matter what type of sharpening system you use, the magic marker trick will save you a lot of extra work and frustration.

You can also find certain Smith’s sharpeners that have a Scissors/Shears sharpening feature.  This patented sharpener uses a “floating” ceramic rod that adjust to the exact bevel of your scissors blades to sharpen scissors or shears.  This may be the type of sharpener you should look at using because the sharpening rod will adjust to the exact angle of the garden shears and it will sharpen both sides at the same time.  It should not have a problem working on your garden pruning shears as long as the shears fit into the sharpening slots.  In addition, it will sharpen left or right-handed shears.

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Example products using a “floating” ceramic rod:

Diamond Edge Pro Knife and Scissors Sharpener

This one product allows you to easily sharpen extremely dull blades, maintain razor sharp edges on both straight and serrated blades & sharpen common household scissors.

4-in-1 Knife and Scissors Sharpener

Carbide blades provide quick edge setting capabilities, and the sharpening steels offer the perfect edge alignment.

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I know this has been a lengthy reply to a simple question.  However, I hope I have provided you with the information needed to successfully sharpen your garden pruning shears.  If not, I would suggest using the world wide web to find various techniques and tips for sharpening garden shears.  I did a quick Google search for “sharpening garden shears” and several links were available. There were more links available for “sharpening” and “sharpening scissors” with some having step-by-step instructions and/or “how to” videos.  Again, if you will provide me with a more specific description of the product you were reviewing, the “Pro Hand Sharpening System,” I could give you a more accurate response to your questions and more detailed usage instructions for that particular product.  You can also get more information on our products from our website, www.smithsedge.com, or by calling our Customer Service department at 800-221-4156.

Thanks!

Russ Cowen
Marketing Manager

Question via Ask the Expert:

I have stainless knife kitchen set.  Bought your 6″ Arkansas stone.  I would like to know how to sharpen these knives as I can’t seem to get a good edge. Do I push the blade on the stone like I’m trying to slice something or drag it backward and not edge first?

I have used the first method for years on my hunting knives but not on stainless and never had any problem.

Thanks!

Edge Expert Response:

Hi John,

We get questions all the time about how hard some stainless steel knives are to sharpen compared to regular carbon steel knives. It sounds like you are a experienced sharpener and you can put an edge on a knife. The key to sharpening is consistency of stroke on both sides of the knife blade and it sounds like you have this down pat.

It is going to take longer on stainless steel knives to get the edge on them because of the hardness. I don’t know what sharpening angle you are using, but I would recommend that you try to get as close to the original angle on the edge as possible so you don’t have to remove an excessive amount of metal to get the edge sharp.  To make sure you get the right angle take a black magic marker and run it over the edges of your knife and then when you start sharpening look at where the black marker has been removed and you can tell if you are matching up to the original angle.

NOTE:  Use moderate pressure when pushing or pulling the blade across the stone; let the stone do the work.  Also, always use honing solution or water as a lubricant when sharpening with Arkansas Stones.  Using a Natural Arkansas Stone without a lubricant will damage and clog your stone, thus reducing its effectiveness and useful life.

There are variables to consider when sharpening SS kitchen knives.  Knowing how these variables affect sharpening will help you to get the best edge possible on your knives.

Stainless Steel – As you know, stainless steel knives are much harder than carbon steel knives, which make them harder to sharpen.  For this reason, you may have to spend more time and effort sharpening these knives than you do your hunting knives.  If it takes you 10 or 12 strokes on each side of the blade to get your hunting knives sharp, it may take you 20 or 30 times on each side to get a harder stainless steel knife sharp.  Just be patient and trust your technique that has proven successful in the past.

Degree of Angle – Most kitchen knives have thinner angles than hunting/sporting knives.  If you are using the same sharpening angle as you use on your hunting knives, you are not going to be successful.  It is going to take you longer to get the edge because you are removing the thinner factory edge and putting a new wider edge on the blade.  In addition, a wider edge will never be as sharp as a thinner edge, so you are never going to think the kitchen knife is sharp.  You will need to adjust your sharpening angle accordingly when sharpening the kitchen knives.  I recommend you try to match up to the current angle on the blade when you first begin the sharpening process.  This will allow you to get a sharp edge quicker and easier.  The easiest way to make sure you are using the right angle is to coat the cutting edges with a black magic marker.  As you sharpen, you will see the marker disappear if you are keeping the right angle to the sharpening stone.  Once you have coated both edges with marker, take a swipe or two down your stone.  If the marker is wiped off over the width of the bevel you have matched the angle properly.  If your angle is too high, only the marker near the very edge will be removed.  If your angle is too low only the marker above the edge will be removed.  Re-coating the edge as you sharpen is a good way to ensure that you’re holding the correct angle throughout the sharpening process.  When you’re finished sharpening and some marker is still present on the blade, put a little rubbing alcohol on a cotton ball and gently wipe the blade to remove the black ink.

Stone Grit – The grit of your stone can also determine how quickly you get a sharp edge and the level of sharpness.  If you have a Medium grit Arkansas Stone (or Soft Arkansas Stone) it will remove metal quickly, but will not put as smooth, polished edge on the blade as a Fine grit Arkansas Stone (or Hard Arkansas Stone).  Adversely, the Fine grit stone will provide a smoother, more polished edge on the blade (which ultimately means a sharper edge), but will not sharpen as quickly as the Medium stone.

As for the answer to the other part of your question, we never recommend sharpening by dragging the blade backwards, or to the edge.  This pushes the metal that is being removed from the blade down to the cutting edge and creates a lot of “garbage” at the cutting point.  We always tell people to start at the edge and stroke away from the edge.  The sharpest edge is a clean, smooth, consistent, polished edge.  Pushing the metal particles toward the cutting edge would contradict your objective.

Hopefully, this helps you understand the difficulty in sharpening Stainless Steel knives and the variables that can affect sharpening.  Like I said earlier, I think you are an experienced sharpener and you can put an edge on a knife.  For this reason, I would not recommend that you change your sharpening method since it sounds like you have been successful in getting sharp edges on your other knives.   Just be patient and persistent and trust your technique.  Remember, the key to sharpening is consistency of angle and equal treatment to both sides of the knife blade.

Have a great day,

Richard S. Smith
President

1. The secret to sharpening is consistency of angle on the abrasive surface and equal treatment on both sides of the blade (if applicable).
2. Alternate sides often (if applicable).
3. Check your progress frequently.
4. When sharpening, start at the edge and stroke away from the edge.
5. Handle a sharpener with care to protect the surface of the sharpening components.
6. Use Sharpening fluid when sharpening with flat stones.  We recommend always using a sharpening fluid no matter if the flat stone can be used wet or dry (i.e. diamond stones) because it keeps the pores of the sharpener clear and clean, dissipates frictional heat, and facilitates a smooth sharpening action.
7. Practice sharpening on a cheap knife.  If you’re worried about damaging your good knives, find a cheap knife to practice on the first time you try to sharpen.
8. Sharpen regularly.  Regular sharpening may involve only fine-tuning the edge, but infrequent sharpening may require much more work to restore the edge.  Sharpen the edge as soon as you notice it’s not working as well as it should. If you attend to the edge soon enough, it shouldn’t take much to bring the edge back to sharp.
9. Keep your sharpener where you use your knives (shop, tackle box, kitchen).  You will be more inclined to sharpen a dulled edge as soon as you notice it if there is a sharpener handy.
10. Reverse or replace your abrasive materials when possible to ensure a proper sharpening process.

Question via Ask the Expert:

Just purchased a Tri-Hone Knife Sharpening System. Primarily to be used to sharpen My Narex bench chisels and various other chisels and knifes.  Do you have any recommendations on using the system or videos regarding the system and chisel sharpening?

Thanks, Seems like a great system!

Mr. Welty,

First, let me thank you for your inquiry and for purchasing one of our products.  The Tri-Hone Sharpening System is a classic multi-use sharpener for all your knives and tools with cutting edges.  The three stone system provides a broad capability to sharpen all edge conditions, from extremely dull to a quick touchup of already sharp blades.  The purpose of each stone is provided below.

COARSE – This coarse grit synthetic stone removes large amounts of metal.  It should be used for quick, aggressive sharpening on extremely dull or damaged blades.  This stones takes a very dull or damaged blade and restores a good working edge to the blade.  You should start the sharpening process with this stone only if your blade is extremely dull or damaged.  It should only be used on straight edge blades, and honing solution is required.

MEDIUM (soft) Arkansas Stone – This general purpose sharpening stone is the most used of all the natural Arkansas stones.  It removes moderate amounts of metal while polishing the edge of your blade at the same time.  It should be used to the start the sharpening process for blades that are somewhat dull and still have a consistent edge.  It should be used on straight edge blades only, and honing solution is required.

FINE (hard) Arkansas Stone – Removes the least amount of metal of the three stones.  It produces an extremely fine edge on your blade and is used for finishing, polishing, or smoothing your cutting edge to razor sharpness.  These stones are excellent for maintaining (or touching up) already sharp edges before each use.  We also recommend always using the Fine Arkansas stone after sharpening on the COARSE or MEDIUM stones to finish and polish the edge.

NOTE:  Natural Arkansas Stones are unique sharpeners because they hone and polish the edge at the same time.  No other sharpening apparatus can perform both these tasks simultaneously.  They are perfect for sharpening pocket knives, hunting/fishing knives, hobby knives, tools, and kitchen knives.

HONING SOLUTION: Always use a lubricant when sharpening with these bench stones.  It protects the stones and the blade of the knife or tool by washing away the particles of stone and metal created during the sharpening process.  Without the lubricant’s washing effect, the particles are forced into the pores of the stone and it “glazes” over, reducing the stone’s sharpening effectiveness.  We recommend Smith’s Premium Honing Oil as the best lubricant.  It is mineral-based and is completely safe.  If necessary, water can be used as a substitute.

CARE & STORAGE:  You must wash your stones after each use.  Just clean it off under running water, then store it in a safe place where it won’t get broken.  We strongly suggest cleaning your Arkansas Stone by vigorously brushing it with soap and water and using a stiff, nylon brush after every three or four times of sharpening.  This will keep the pores of your stone clean and it will last for many, many years.

Now to your question regarding sharpening chisels with the Tri-Hone Sharpening System.  We do not have any videos of sharpening chisels using the Tri-Hone Sharpening System.  However, it is basically the same as sharpening a knife blade except for the chisel edge is only ground on one side of the blade.  The other side is flat.  Therefore, only sharpen the side of the blade with the grind.  The key to sharpening a chisel is to try to keep the same grind that is already on the chisel and once finished sharpening knock off the burr on the back side by lightly honing the flat side of the chisel.  Please note, chisel ground edges can be extremely thin and very sharp.  If this is the case with your chisel’s edge, exercise restraint.  Check progress frequently (a few strokes may be all you need, especially if using the coarse or medium bench stones) and don’t use a lot of pressure when stroking.  Obviously, this would not apply if your chisel has a very thick edge on it.

To sharpen the chisel’s edge, put some honing solution on the desired sharpening stone(s).  Use enough to cover the entire surface of the stone.  Place the grind side of the chisel on the flat stone’s surface and hold the chisel at the angle that matches the original angle on the chisel.  Push the chisel down the length of the stone away from your body.  As with sharpening a knife blade, the objective is to start at the edge and stroke away from the edge.  Check progress and continue until you feel a burr on the opposite side of the blade.  Depending on the hardness of the steel used in your chisel, you may have to repeat the process several times on a couple different grit stones and/or make numerous strokes over the sharpening stones.  Once you feel the burr or achieve desired sharpness, flip the chisel over to the other side and lightly hone the back side on the FINE stone to remove the burr.  Use the same technique to lightly hone the back side as you did sharpening the grind on the other side, just use less strokes and less pressure.  Keep the number of strokes to a minimum to avoid rolling the burr back to the other side.  Once you obtain a sharp edge, stop sharpening.  Over-sharpening can be just as bad as not sharpening at all.

So, how do you tell if your chisel is sharp?  The best way to tell if you chisel’s edge is sharp is to use it for its intended use.  If it performs as you expect, then it is sharp.  The real test comes in how well you maintain that sharp edge.

I hope this helps in lieu of our not having an instructional video.  I would also suggest using the world wide web to find various techniques and tips for sharpening chisels and planes.  I did a quick Google search for “sharpening chisels by hand” and numerous resources and links were available with step-by-step instructions and illustrations.

I want to thank you again for your interest in sharpening and our products.  If there is anything else you need or would like to know, please shoot me an email or give me a call at the contact information below.  I would love to help if I can.

Best Regards,
Russ Cowen
MARKETING MANAGER
Smiths Edge.com

We love hearing such nice comments from our happy customers. Thanks Dan, for a great review!

I have always sucked at sharpening knives no matter what type of sharpener I tried. I finally gave up on buying them. The other day I was in my favorite toy store (Lowes) and spotted a Smith’s Precision Sharpening Kit. I thought oh what the heck I have already tried them all from hand held to electric I might as well give this a shot. WOW! What a difference, I am now a pro. My wife thinks I went to knife sharpening school.

Finally a product that does what it says it will.

Kudos and thanks to Smith’s,

Dan Fredenburg
Plano, TX

In an excellent debut article in HOMEWORLD BUSINESS® • NEWS (January. 4-17, 2010), Senior Editor Lori Schneider introduces Smith’s new line, EdgeWare, to the general public. Schneider starts,

With the goal of broadening its kitchenware presence, U.S. manufacturer Smith’s is debuting its first-ever food-preparation products under its Edgeware brand this year

The company’s new mandoline slicer, which will make its international debut at Ambiente, is the first product in the company’s migration beyond edge-related products and is the first of the company’s line of food-prep tools. Pre-orders are being taken now and more tools will be available toward the end of 2010.

“We were growing very well in our existing business, which is sporting knives, and were looking for new interesting opportunities,” CEO Dan Glidden said. “The gourmet housewares category made sense to us.”

Smith’s had already been in the segment via private branded products, but the company felt there was a void in the mid-range market for sharpening tools.

To support launch of these products and the Edgeware brand, Smith’s will feature new product packaging reflecting the name, as well as special instore displays, a new housewaresfocused website, consumer advertising and a social media presence with The Edge Experts blog and pages on Facebook and YouTube.

Download the full article here.

Question via Ask the Expert:

Do you have any report on the Smith sharpener 50006? Any information would be helpful.

Thanks,

Gary

Hi Gary,

The 50006 - Diamond Edge Gourmet™ Electric/Manual Knife & Scissors Sharpener offers the flexibility of both electric and manual sharpening together in one unit. With this one product, you can easily sharpen extremely dull blades, maintain razor sharp edges on both straight and serrated edges, and sharpen common household scissors.

The unit’s unique features include: interlocking diamond abrasive wheels for fast and precise sharpening of both sides of your blade at the same time and guarantees factory edge results every time no matter your blade type or edge condition.

The 50006 also features a manual finishing slot for polishing a freshly ground edge or for sharpening serrated blades. The unit assures equal treatment of both sides of the knife blade and incorporates a retractable scissors sharpener.

Electric Features:
• Interlocking Diamond Abrasive Wheels Sharpen Both Sides of the Blade at the Same Time to a Factory “Hollow-Ground” Edge

Manual Features:
• Triangular Shaped Ceramic Stones Provide Final Edge Honing for Straight Edge or Serrated Edge Blades
• Pull-2-Lock Scissors Sharpener for Right or Left-Handed Scissors

Additional Features:
• Rubber Hand Grip for Comfort and Control
• Non-Slip Rubber Feet for Safety
• Clean Out Slot Under Machine

Hope this answers your questions. Let us know if you need any additional information.

We love our simple and budget friendly Edge Grip 2 step knife sharpener- and so does everyone else! It was just awarded the best 2-step Knife Sharpener from the expert review site, Bestcovery.com.

Why is it the best? Here’s what they had to say…

This is a small and lightweight sharpener, but it’s also sturdy and well made. It has a carbide blade on one side for edge-setting, and a fine ceramic rod on the other for final honing. Rubber feet keep it fixed to the surface, and a rubber handle makes it easy to hold and use, either on a flat surface, or on the edge of a table or counter.
It works really well without too much effort, and at around $7 it’s an incredible bargain.

Check it out online at SmithsEdge.com. (It makes a GREAT stocking stuffer too!!!)

The web is a fast and changing world and we at Smith’s try very hard to keep up with it as best we can. We love the opportunity to connect with our customers on a more personal level, especially through feedback, questions, and new product ideas. Smith’s blog gets some really great “Ask the Expert” questions and lots of comments are posted on our YouTube videos and Facebook fan page as well.

However, because of the openness of our online policy, we often come across feedback on which we’re not quite sure how to respond. As a rule, we always respond to comments that involve our product being defective or malfunctioning. In those instances, we make sure the customer knows that we warrant our products against defective materials or workmanship and will replace them at no cost. All they have to do is contact Smith’s at 800-221-4156 or via the website.

As for negative comments that our product “messed up my knife” or “I hate it, it doesn’t work,” we would really like to provide an informative and helpful response, but it is difficult to do so when we don’t know if the sharpener was being used properly or if it was even the right sharpener for that style of blade. As you may know, there are lots of factors that impact the use of sharpening products, e.g. type of sharpener, type of knife, hardness of the steel blade, double-bevel or single bevel, sharpening experience, sharpening knowledge, proper use, definition of “sharp”, user’s expectations, etc. Therefore, please help us correct any problems with our products by providing as much detailed feedback you can regarding any or all of these factors. The end result will, in turn, prove beneficial to you as well.

In addition to educating consumers about our products and knife sharpening in general, one of our primary purposes of posting our photos, videos, etc. on the internet and maintaining our blog is to gain feedback that will help us improve our products. We strive to be perfect, but, like everyone else, we rarely achieve that. This is why it is so important for you to provide us with as much constructive feedback you can.

Our goal is to consistently provide the best sharpening products on the market to our customers. Providing outstanding customer service is also of the utmost importance to us. We welcome all feedback and will try to respond to every question that comes our way. But please help us help you, by providing feedback we can learn from.

Dan Glidden
CEO, Smith’s

Question via “Ask the Expert“

What is the difference between model 50023 in the EdgeSport catalog and model 50006 in the EdgeWare catalog?

Thank you for your help,

Peter Lohr

Edge Expert Response:

Mr. Lohr,
Thanks for your inquiry and your interest in Smith’s electric knife sharpeners. To answer your question, I have provided a quick comparison below.

Differences:
The 50023 Edgesport electric knife sharpening model has two manual sharpening slots as opposed to just one manual slot on the Edgeware 50006 model. The additional sharpening slot is a manual edge-setting slot that uses crossed carbide blades to quickly re-set the edge on very dull or damaged blades. Carbide Blades are very aggressive and remove lots of metal from the blade which has more application when it comes to Hunting/Fishing and Outdoor Sports knives. These types of knives are normally used for strenuous activities and receive more abuse than kitchen type knives used to cut soft foods and properly stored in wood blocks or drawer organizers.
The 50023 model provides you the opportunity to use Adjustable Speeds for precision sharpening. Adjustable speeds allow the user of the sharpener to match the level of metal removal to the condition of his or her knife blade. The low speed is used for the majority of the sharpening performed. However, if the blade is proving difficult to sharpen on low speed because of a harder steel or an uneven grind, the high speed will sharpen quicker and reduce the need for excess grinding at low speeds.

The exterior housing on the 50023 model is designed with a more rugged, hardware feel for the Sporting Goods market, whereas the 50006 is more elegantly designed to fit in the most gourmet kitchen. It has a softer, curvy feel to better appeal to females. The 50006 was designed to sit out on the kitchen counter, while the 50023 is normally stored in a cabinet until ready for use.

The 50006 model has a newer version of the interior motor, which makes it not as noisy as the 50023 model.

Similarities:

• both models utilize Interlocking Diamond Wheels in the mechanical sharpening slot. This is the newest technology on the market for electric sharpeners.
• both models feature both mechanical and manual sharpening slots.
• both models incorporate a retractable scissors sharpener in the side of the housing. This patented design sharpener sharpens both left and right-handed scissors.
• both models use ceramic stones for manual finishing or a quick touch up of already sharp blades. These specially shaped stones will also lightly hone SERRATED blades.
• Their overall dimensional footprint is basically the same.

I hope this helps in your understanding of our most advanced electric sharpeners. If there is anything else you need or would like to know, please feel free to contact me.

Thank you again for your interest in our products.